Sunday, April 22, 2012

Divorce Step Two: A Bureaucratic Fuckup With A Happy Ending

Wedded bliss. The paperwork is just the first challenge.
When I wrote the first post about my upcoming divorce, I'd assumed it was going to be a series of steps, like getting married was. Go to this place for that paper, go to another place for a different paper, drive across town to another place for further paper, then take all the paper to a fourth place only to be told someone at the second place made a mistake and you have to start all over. But the guy at the second place didn't make a mistake after all, so you take everything back to the fourth place where a different guy says nothing about the alleged mistake and dourly stamps the hell out of everything and then gets money for it.

Waiting for...
Those are the kind of steps I can deal with. Instead, after the notary there was no need to go anywhere. There was just a lot of waiting. And the waiting was pretty much down to the lawyer, who clearly doesn't feel the same sense of urgency about all this that I do. Every day, I'm just waiting for BE to change his mind about the whole thing and then make me put up with his bullshit for another year until he changes his mind back. He did his part to make it all take longer by getting nitpicky about stuff he had agreed to and trying to get more stuff. I was like, "Fuck you. Take whatever you want and how about you pay me some fucking money already." Anyway, all he really wanted was more time with LE and I'm not into making a fight about that at all.

The agreement was done ages ago but it took forever to write and translate. I mean, I know my lawyer has a new baby and everything and I'm trying to be sympathetic about that. But at the same time, I borrowed a shitload of money from my parents to give her and while babies are extraordinarily time-consuming, I know from Facebook when my lawyer goes to Antalya or does some other fabulous, not-dealing-with-my divorce sort of thing.

My lawyer, despite everything...
The fact that I like my lawyer makes it hard to get annoyed with her. She's still my champion in all of this. And the fact that I can say something like "my lawyer" makes me feel super-cool, like Tony fucking Soprano.

But still...

The only place I had to go was to a very nice and civilized cafe in Nışantaşı to deliver the signed agreements and power of attorney forms. So that was all right. I had coffee and my lawyer had tea.

A couple of weeks ago, my lawyer (my lawyer!) sent me a message that she was trying to file the papers at the court, but there was a problem about my name. Fuck. The name problem chose this time to come and bite me in the ass.

I think I've mentioned before how I have 3 official names in Turkey. The first is the name I came here with. That's the name on the front page of my passport and in my residence permit: Unused First Name Stranger Maiden Name.

This question gives me pause.
After I got married, I had the passport amended to show the name change, with the amendment on the back page because they don't give you a new passport when you change your name, not until the old one expires. My official name in America is this one: Unused First Name Stranger Maiden Name Married Name.

When I got married, the law was still that women were required to take their husbands' names. That law has since changed. If women wanted to hyphenate or keep their old names, they had to petition the Nüfüs Mürdüğülü Something Something office with lots of diacritics. Except this office doesn't have any jurisdiction over foreigners, so...

So in my marriage certificate, I'm Unused First Name Stranger Married name. We tried to get the guy who did the certificate to just go ahead and include my maiden name in there as a second middle name, but he didn't care for that idea, not one bit.

When it came time to renew my residence permit after getting married, we tried to get them to change the name to match the on my passport. But the foreign police will only use the name on the front page of the passport, and refused to accept the back page amendment. We tried for 7 years of renewals to get them to change it, but they were having none of it. Even after they got all computerized and my name was probably turning up as something else in their computers, they wouldn't change it.

Remember this? I do.
To complicate things further, about 5 years ago, the yabancı kimlik numarası (foreigner ID number) was introduced. So older official things of mine, like my original SSK account or my tax ID number, are attached to a number they don't use anymore, either my passport number or my residence permit number. My new SSK account is in what I think of as my "real" name (the one with both my maiden and married names), attached to the yabancı kimlik numarası. I'm not sure what my residence permit is attached to. Anyway, the number thing plus the name thing makes me understand why I ended up with two SSK accounts, though I still think it's a crock of shit no one over there noticed it. What are databases and computers for, after all?

Anyway, when the judge went to file the divorce stuff, he or she (probably he) discovered the thing about my names. I knew it would bite me in the ass sometime, and I was really hoping that this wouldn't be the time. The lawyer was sending me emails all day trying to figure it out, and I was sending her emails back, explaining the individual acts of stupidity and stubbornness, none of which were my fault exactly, that resulted in my name problem. By the end of the day I was just asking her to tell the judge to give me whatever name he wanted. I just don't care that much anymore.

Anyone can navigate it, seriously.




Back to the waiting. My lawyer, bless her, never got back to me about the result of the name issue. I waited for another week on tenterhooks, wondering what sort of bureaucratic triplicates were churning through the Byzantine underground. I started thinking I would never get divorced.

So I sent her another one of my politely passive-aggressive emails asking if any progress had been made. And a few days later, she replied telling me the case had been filed a week ago, with a lengthy docket number, and that a petition had been mailed to BE. The judge was busy that week, she said, but she will get back to me with a court date soon enough.

Just trust this guy, okay?
And with that, Divorce Step Two, filing the case, is complete. I admit I'm a little nervous about the part where a petition is being mailed-- Turkish mail is such that I once received a letter from my grandmother three months after she had died. But things always have a way of working out, so I'm hoping for the best.

Maybe they'll use a courier service.


Monday, April 16, 2012

Emirgan Park: A Day of Tulips

But no Triffids, sadly for us. Or maybe that's okay.

So today we went to Emirgan Park to take a gander at the tulips.

Don't worry. More tulips are forthcoming.
Everyone else in Istanbul had the same idea so it was fucking crowded. Also a lot of people were getting married because people in Turkey get married all the time. It was a good day, not too hot but nice, with a big group of us and LE was the only kid there so everyone was happy to pay attention to him. That's pretty much all he asks from the world.

One nice thing that happened was when LE had to pee. The line for the women's was 8 people long. Something I've never figured out in Turkey is what the hell women here do in the toilets that takes so long, but they take fucking forever which means we were looking at like half an hour in that line. So I brought him over to the gents and told him he could just go by himself. He was cool with that. The other fellows in the line were as nice as could be, even though we all felt a little embarrassed about me being in the man line. They even let LE cut the line, and gave him a hand with the paper towels and stuff. So that was cool.

It's nice being able to not feel the American Stranger Danger about the whole bathroom thing. And yeah, I just split the hell out of that infinitive because that's how I roll. And I live in a place where you can let a strange man help your kid in the toilet and that's cool.

With that, let nothing else get in the way of the tulips. Because tulips are fucking amazing, seriously.

LE with tulips. 
Tulips with grape hyacinth. Which grows wild here, by the way.
LE with grape hyacinth.
Grape hyacinth extreme close up!
White tulips!
Pink tulips!
White tulips with some other tulips!
A slightly different shade of pink tulips!
More pink tulips that LE took a picture of!
Cool tulips!
A cunning arrangement of tulips!
From a slightly different angle!
Extreme close up!
Pointy red tulips!
The same ones, but closer!
LE riding a pretend tulip!
Pink tulips with charming white flowers!
Variegated orange tulips with charming white flowers!
A fabulous view!
Here it is!
Here it is again, only slightly different!
Here it is again all close up!
I'm speechless!
Tulips that look like İznik tiles.
Tulips that kill me.
An array of tulips.
The same array, but without the pink ones in the foreground.
Sexy tulip close up.
More white tulips!
Oh no! White tulips, watch out for the red tulips!
Tulips that look like fire.
Pinkish tulips with a scary yellow yabancı tulip lurking amongst them...
Tulips that look like a different kind of fire!
Tulips so red the human eye can't quite process them.
Extreme sexy dirty close up of ultra red tulips! I invaded their tulip-y privacy! Hah!
These are nice tulips.
Another sweet view. This sort of thing happens all the time in Istanbul.

And with that, I'll say nothing else because I have no business upstaging the tulips further... I love saying tulips now!

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Perking The Pansies: A Shamefully Belated Review

Buy the book.
I know I already mentioned what a pleasure it was meeting Jack and Liam of Perking the Pansies fame, back in January. The conversation flowed like the wine we wished we could drink (alas, it was midday and the kids were keeping us busy), and our boys took to Jack and Liam like they were the gay uncles who've been giving cool gifts since birth. Even LE, who tends to be reticent around new people, was hand-in-hand with Jack before we'd even walked 3 blocks.




I read Jack's book as soon as I got back from Bodrum, even holding off on the book I was already half-done with, and I've been meaning to write the review ever since.

So why haven't I? I don't know. So much time has passed I've started to feel ashamed. I've never written a book review before, and I admit I'm finding it tricky to review a book of someone I met who I liked so well.

Then it occurred to me that's probably the best thing. Perking the Pansies is a memoir in the truest sense. The sentences are laced with the narrator, and if he's an unreliable narrator I don't give a shit. It could be that I'm an unreliable reviewer and I don't give a shit about that either. Perking the Pansies was a pleasure. I want to say it was a dirty pleasure, but it wasn't. Light reading, yes, but light content, no.

This guy knows all about your host country.
A lot of foreigners who come to Turkey carve out their yabancı niches for themselves right away, then spend an inordinate amount of time getting drunk and making fun of the locals. Of course, some of the making fun isn't too far off, but when it comes from a place of implied superiority (whether is well-intended or not), or when it comes from people who've made precious little effort to join this new world a bit, the whole thing just becomes poisonous. It's an easy trap for a new yabancı to fall into. And Jack and Liam fell in with these poisonous sorts right from the beginning.

Who would you be friends with?
Yet they didn't get poisoned. And they got away from the poison a whole lot faster than I managed to, with the narrative deftly giving them their just desserts. Jack's exact descriptions of the awful kinds of foreign people one comes across here are both funny and tragic, reminding one that the reason some foreigners come to Turkey is because they're completely unacceptable in their home countries.

Not that being unacceptable at home is completely a bad thing. Sometimes this speaks well of people, and the expats who turned out to be okay in Perking the Pansies are also well-drawn, with obvious and abundant affection. It reminds me how lucky I am to come across the a lot of the people I have here, both foreign and Turkish.

Even Turks have the beloved kapıcı caricature.
Another trap that's easy for yabancı to fall into is viewing Turks as one-dimensional caricatures. I don't think this comes from a bad place. More it's due to not understanding the language well, or talking to people who speak a lot of broken English that lacks the depth of expression and subtlety one is used to without even realizing it. But despite having lived in Turkey only a short time, Perking the Pansies manages to avoid painting a flat picture of the Turks Jack comes across. Yes, he captures what is funny about Tarik the kapıcı, but you can be sure there are a lot of guys like Tarik who are no less loveable in their totally foreign ways.

The death of Üzgün is something I can't get my head around still. And my heart aches for Charlotte and Alan, who I hope have at least found their Adalet. I expect Jack to keep us updated about them even after he's gone.

Because, yes, this is another thing that happens with expats. They leave. They have good reasons for leaving, but it doesn't make it any easier when they go away. There's a constant ebb and flow of losing people you love and finding new ones to love. Maybe it's the lack of permanence that keeps life interesting.

So, Jack, I leave you with a quote from another Jack who I like way less but who nonetheless gets it right sometimes...

“What is that feeling when you're driving away from people and they recede on the plain till you see their specks dispersing? - it's the too-huge world vaulting us, and it's good-bye. But we lean forward to the next crazy venture beneath the skies.” 
Jack Kerouac-- On The Road 


I wish Jack and Liam all the best with whatever adventure life throws at them next. 
Love,
Stranger