Monday, April 16, 2012

Emirgan Park: A Day of Tulips

But no Triffids, sadly for us. Or maybe that's okay.

So today we went to Emirgan Park to take a gander at the tulips.

Don't worry. More tulips are forthcoming.
Everyone else in Istanbul had the same idea so it was fucking crowded. Also a lot of people were getting married because people in Turkey get married all the time. It was a good day, not too hot but nice, with a big group of us and LE was the only kid there so everyone was happy to pay attention to him. That's pretty much all he asks from the world.

One nice thing that happened was when LE had to pee. The line for the women's was 8 people long. Something I've never figured out in Turkey is what the hell women here do in the toilets that takes so long, but they take fucking forever which means we were looking at like half an hour in that line. So I brought him over to the gents and told him he could just go by himself. He was cool with that. The other fellows in the line were as nice as could be, even though we all felt a little embarrassed about me being in the man line. They even let LE cut the line, and gave him a hand with the paper towels and stuff. So that was cool.

It's nice being able to not feel the American Stranger Danger about the whole bathroom thing. And yeah, I just split the hell out of that infinitive because that's how I roll. And I live in a place where you can let a strange man help your kid in the toilet and that's cool.

With that, let nothing else get in the way of the tulips. Because tulips are fucking amazing, seriously.

LE with tulips. 
Tulips with grape hyacinth. Which grows wild here, by the way.
LE with grape hyacinth.
Grape hyacinth extreme close up!
White tulips!
Pink tulips!
White tulips with some other tulips!
A slightly different shade of pink tulips!
More pink tulips that LE took a picture of!
Cool tulips!
A cunning arrangement of tulips!
From a slightly different angle!
Extreme close up!
Pointy red tulips!
The same ones, but closer!
LE riding a pretend tulip!
Pink tulips with charming white flowers!
Variegated orange tulips with charming white flowers!
A fabulous view!
Here it is!
Here it is again, only slightly different!
Here it is again all close up!
I'm speechless!
Tulips that look like İznik tiles.
Tulips that kill me.
An array of tulips.
The same array, but without the pink ones in the foreground.
Sexy tulip close up.
More white tulips!
Oh no! White tulips, watch out for the red tulips!
Tulips that look like fire.
Pinkish tulips with a scary yellow yabancı tulip lurking amongst them...
Tulips that look like a different kind of fire!
Tulips so red the human eye can't quite process them.
Extreme sexy dirty close up of ultra red tulips! I invaded their tulip-y privacy! Hah!
These are nice tulips.
Another sweet view. This sort of thing happens all the time in Istanbul.

And with that, I'll say nothing else because I have no business upstaging the tulips further... I love saying tulips now!

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Perking The Pansies: A Shamefully Belated Review

Buy the book.
I know I already mentioned what a pleasure it was meeting Jack and Liam of Perking the Pansies fame, back in January. The conversation flowed like the wine we wished we could drink (alas, it was midday and the kids were keeping us busy), and our boys took to Jack and Liam like they were the gay uncles who've been giving cool gifts since birth. Even LE, who tends to be reticent around new people, was hand-in-hand with Jack before we'd even walked 3 blocks.




I read Jack's book as soon as I got back from Bodrum, even holding off on the book I was already half-done with, and I've been meaning to write the review ever since.

So why haven't I? I don't know. So much time has passed I've started to feel ashamed. I've never written a book review before, and I admit I'm finding it tricky to review a book of someone I met who I liked so well.

Then it occurred to me that's probably the best thing. Perking the Pansies is a memoir in the truest sense. The sentences are laced with the narrator, and if he's an unreliable narrator I don't give a shit. It could be that I'm an unreliable reviewer and I don't give a shit about that either. Perking the Pansies was a pleasure. I want to say it was a dirty pleasure, but it wasn't. Light reading, yes, but light content, no.

This guy knows all about your host country.
A lot of foreigners who come to Turkey carve out their yabancı niches for themselves right away, then spend an inordinate amount of time getting drunk and making fun of the locals. Of course, some of the making fun isn't too far off, but when it comes from a place of implied superiority (whether is well-intended or not), or when it comes from people who've made precious little effort to join this new world a bit, the whole thing just becomes poisonous. It's an easy trap for a new yabancı to fall into. And Jack and Liam fell in with these poisonous sorts right from the beginning.

Who would you be friends with?
Yet they didn't get poisoned. And they got away from the poison a whole lot faster than I managed to, with the narrative deftly giving them their just desserts. Jack's exact descriptions of the awful kinds of foreign people one comes across here are both funny and tragic, reminding one that the reason some foreigners come to Turkey is because they're completely unacceptable in their home countries.

Not that being unacceptable at home is completely a bad thing. Sometimes this speaks well of people, and the expats who turned out to be okay in Perking the Pansies are also well-drawn, with obvious and abundant affection. It reminds me how lucky I am to come across the a lot of the people I have here, both foreign and Turkish.

Even Turks have the beloved kapıcı caricature.
Another trap that's easy for yabancı to fall into is viewing Turks as one-dimensional caricatures. I don't think this comes from a bad place. More it's due to not understanding the language well, or talking to people who speak a lot of broken English that lacks the depth of expression and subtlety one is used to without even realizing it. But despite having lived in Turkey only a short time, Perking the Pansies manages to avoid painting a flat picture of the Turks Jack comes across. Yes, he captures what is funny about Tarik the kapıcı, but you can be sure there are a lot of guys like Tarik who are no less loveable in their totally foreign ways.

The death of Üzgün is something I can't get my head around still. And my heart aches for Charlotte and Alan, who I hope have at least found their Adalet. I expect Jack to keep us updated about them even after he's gone.

Because, yes, this is another thing that happens with expats. They leave. They have good reasons for leaving, but it doesn't make it any easier when they go away. There's a constant ebb and flow of losing people you love and finding new ones to love. Maybe it's the lack of permanence that keeps life interesting.

So, Jack, I leave you with a quote from another Jack who I like way less but who nonetheless gets it right sometimes...

“What is that feeling when you're driving away from people and they recede on the plain till you see their specks dispersing? - it's the too-huge world vaulting us, and it's good-bye. But we lean forward to the next crazy venture beneath the skies.” 
Jack Kerouac-- On The Road 


I wish Jack and Liam all the best with whatever adventure life throws at them next. 
Love,
Stranger

Sunday, March 25, 2012

A Couple Days Off Work

Give me a couple of days off work, and I get really fucking productive. I humbly offer you my cartoon series, "If Turkish Words Were Used As Sound Effects In Primitive Comics."

#1: Zonguldak

It's a copy machine, okay? That's why I wrote "Xerox" on there. Zonguldak, a city name, is one of my favorite words in Turkish. It's also the word you use for "Z" when you're spelling something. Spelling things in Turkish, like my name, is a particular challenge for me here, because people rarely spell with letters. Instead, they spell by syllables. Turkish is phonetic enough for this. So, for example, if you have to spell "Zonguldak," you wouldn't say "ze o ne ge..." etc. You'd just say "zon gul dak," and give the person enough time to write it down. This syllable spelling method works for most Turkish words.

It sucks, however, for foreign words. Something like "Stranger" might be considered as 3 or 4 or 5 syllables depending on the person's ear and the rules of Turkish syllabification that I never did quite get. In any case, Turkish doesn't like consonant combinations. After a lot of confusion and negotiation, the person might come up with something like "sıtranger" or "stıranger" or "sıtıranger" or "sıtıranıger." If you're lucky, you'll have the opportunity to just write the foreign word yourself and safe the person the trouble of having to spell it.

Turkish's dislike of consonant combinations is also why I like making low-level students say "skiing." It comes out as "sik-ing," which sounds like "fuck" in Turkish with an English "-ing." It was especially fun making the covered girls say it at my old university. "I enjoy sik-ing." Hee!

One has to rely on low pleasures sometimes.

So if you have to spell your foreign name, you often have to rely on the letter-to-city system of spelling, especially over the phone where the aforementioned methods all fail. This involves using a city name to represent each letter. Mostly it's Turkish cities, except that P is Paris. I also know A is Adana and Z is Zonguldak, because those are in my name. But the rest I still haven't memorized, so when I have to spell my name, it's a super-double challenge of speaking Turkish and thinking of cities in Turkey. I suppose I could have memorized all the cities in my name, but trying to think of them is more fun.

Sivas Tarsus Rize Adana Niğde Gaziantep Edirne Rize. And that's just how I'd spell it over the phone today. The cities can change. Sometimes the person on the other end tries to help out by offering random Turkish cities when you get stuck. Sometimes it helps.

#2: Gül


Gül means rose. I've come to think of it as a mostly nice word, and a nice-sounding word. It's a particularly ubiquitous word, especially in women's names. You can just tack "gül" onto almost any name and make it prettier. Fatmagül, Elifgül, Strangergül... One of my favorite is "Songül," meaning "last rose," which, rather cruelly expresses a parent's wish not to have any more girls, or rather reasonably expresses a wish not to have any more children. Some more entertaining names in this vein are the boy's names "Yeter" (enough) and "Dursun" (let it stop.) 

But Gül is one of those names that's on the list of "Turkish Names That Don't Sound So Good In English," along with Peker, Ufuk, Fatih, and of course, Kunt, which is the most titter-worthy of all Turkish names.

#3: Hay hay

"Hay hay" is an expression I rarely hear but still hear sometimes. Hearing "hay hay" makes my day because it's so nice and I don't hear it often.

"May I have some ezogelin soup?"
"Hay hay!"

It's wonderful, having an expression you like hearing but rarely come across. I think the best translation for "hay hay" is one I saw on Sex and the City, when Kyle MacLachlan says, "Okey-dokey" a lot. It's kind of a cheerfully quaint expression that's a bit like saying, "Gee, that's swell!" and "Yes, of course" at the same time. I mostly hear it from workers, so I don't know if that means "hay hay" is regional or rural, or if it means something else entirely.

#4: Zarf 
 
"Zarf" means both "envelope" and "adverb." I'm forever confusing it with "harf."



#5: Harf

"Harf" means "letter" (as in ABC, not the kind you mail). That's why I always confuse them when I want to buy an envelope. I think "letter" because of the envelope, but it's the wrong kind of letter, then I lose confidence in my "zarf" vs. "harf" decision. It's kind of like how I still confuse "güney" and "küzey" (North and nouth. Or south and north. Whatever-- I'm not committing either way), no matter what trick I try to use to learn them once and for all.

#6: Üzümüm


"Üzümüm" means "my grape." It's not a word one is called upon to say much, but it's theoretically amusing so credit to my friend B for saying it all the time. French gets all the credit for sounding sexy. And yes, it often sounds sexy. Turkish can also sound sexy, or, like any language, it can sound like dogs barking depending on who's speaking it, and to whom, and in what situation. Regardless of how it sounds, however, Turkish often requires an extremely sexy pursing of the lips. Seriously. I can be looking at the most hangdog, grizzliest, missingest brown tooth face on earth, but when that person smiles and says something like "üzümüm" at the same time, I go weak at the knees. It doesn't help that a lot of Turkish people have the most beautifully-shaped lips I've ever seen. And also Turks have thrillingly-colored eyes. I can't account for the eye thing, but maybe the lip thing comes from the workout from saying things like "üzümüm" since birth.

So that's my foray into cartoonin'.

Dear Hyperbole And A Half,

This post is a travesty. Please come back.

Love,
Stranger.

Friday, March 23, 2012

St. Patrick's Day: A Musical Interlude

Like most foreign holidays, St. Patrick's Day came and went. I realized I'd never told LE about any of the stuff Americans play with for this holiday when I was explaining that we were going to a St. Patrick's Day party. He doesn't know about four-leafed clovers or leprechauns or pots of gold under rainbows, let alone green beer. I told him he had to change into some green clothes or he might get pinched, as per elementary school tradition. I also told him we were having this holiday because St. Patrick drove all the snakes out of Ireland and now there are no snakes in Ireland.

Hee!
Which I'm guessing isn't true. None of it. LE was all, "What's Ireland?" and I told him it's near England where his amca lives. And also that most Irish people don't do much for St. Patrick's Day, but Americans get all excited about it, especially ones that might have a drop or two of Irish blood, like we supposedly do.

He didn't care. He was more worried about getting pinched. Also, he's more into Superman right now, and wondered whether or not Superman was an alien when he was a baby. I explained that he indeed was.

The party was lovely. It was with the group of mama friends we used to have a weekly mama meeting and play day with when our kids were really small and I didn't live so far away. But now the kids are mostly in school and it takes ages for me to get over to that part of town, so we don't all get to meet up as much as we used to.

Seeing them used to be the only time I got out of the house each week. I miss them. And I love how they do so much to keep our yabancı holidays going by making them super fun for the kids.

And this time, as we sat around the kitchen table and snacked and snuck Kahlua and Bailey's into our coffee, we realized this was the first time we were all getting to hang out without dealing with kids in any way-- no fights, no diapers, no helping them eat, nothing but occasionally chasing them out of the kitchen and settling them down when they started getting too insane. It was bliss.

I'm cool with kids growing up, at least until they start getting all lippy and thinking they're smarter than me.

The next day, I talked to my parents, who had celebrated St. Paddy's with my favorite neighbor. My dad's music choice was a CD of old St. Patrick's Day songs, like Perry Como old. Apparently it made the night very merry.

I told him he should have gotten the Pogues. Our neighbor would have known about them, though perhaps the evening would have been less merry, it's hard to say. He was still against the Pogues, as he has been since I was a teenager and listened to the Pogues.

Thanks to technology, I was able to email him some Pogues.



And you know what? He liked them this time. Claimed it was nothing like what he thought I was listening to as a teenager. I suspect one is probably hard-wired to hate the music one's teenager listens to.

Which makes me wonder, what will LE listen to when he's a teenager that I absolutely will hate? Will music take the sort of turn I can never get my head around, like rock 'n' roll did for my grandparents, or punk or electronic has done for my parents? This peculiar possible future of music interests me greatly.

On the other hand, LE's tastes may just run to crappy Turkish and Western pop and maybe İbo, in which case my disliking his music will be perfectly justified.

This is his favorite song right now.



It also occurred to me that part of the reason my dad chose the music he did was because it had a nostalgic quality for him, like maybe it was the music his parents listened to when he was a kid. Probably. I think my dad told me once his parents loved Perry Como. And maybe Don Ho but I'm not sure. Anyway, it made me wonder what music LE will play for his friends when he's in his 60s and feeling nostalgic for the  music I used to play in the kitchen.

With that, I'll leave you with one of our favorite lullabies.